Fast Fashion Unpacked

So, what is Fast Fashion?

‍

Fast fashion can be defined as low-cost, fashion pieces which are rapidly produced by mass-market retailers in response to the latest trends, making ‘stylish’ clothing accessible to the average consumer at an affordable price.

‍

… And, why is it a problem?

‍

Fast fashion is exceptionally damaging to the environment due to its unsustainable production methods. The fast turnover of clothing leads to excessive water usage, pollution from chemicals in dyeing and processing, and high levels of greenhouse gas emissions. Additionally, the disposal of huge quantities of clothing contributes to overflowing landfills causing further environmental damage.

It exploits cheap labour in developing countries, leading to extremely poor working conditions and low  wages. And encourages a culture of disposal, where clothes are quickly thrown away, causing overconsumption and generating waste.

Many fast fashion brands lack transparency, making it hard for their consumers to know the true impact of their purchases. Overall, fast fashion prioritises affordability, convenience, and profitability over ethical and environmental concerns.

‍

The Environmental Impact

‍

Global Greenhouse Gas Emissions: The fashion industry is the second-largest contributor to industrial pollution, currently higher than air travel emissions, accounting for 10% of global pollution. When we trace the lifecycle of each garment, from production to transportation to its disposal to landfill, the fashion industry only generates an estimated 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon annually.

Water Pollution: In countries where fast fashion garments are produced, the toxins from the textile factories are left untreated and dumped directly into local rivers. The textile wastewater contains toxins such as lead and mercury, which later harm aquatic life and the health of those living nearby. Furthermore, these contaminated waters inevitably reach the ocean and later spread on a global scale.

Plastic Pollution: It's estimated that 60% of the clothes we produce today are made from synthetic materials such as polyester, acrylic, and nylon, which all contain plastic. Therefore these materials often don’t degrade and can't be recycled. Also, when we wash these clothes, the friction shreds and releases tiny synthetic fibres that escape the filters in most washing machines; our laundry alone accounts for 35% of the primary microplastics that end up in our oceans.

Waste Generation: The fashion industry's fast production and turnover of clothing has caused a significant increase in waste generation. This reality was made clear in 2023, when SkyFi, a satellite imagery app, revealed a literal mountain of discarded clothes in Chile's Atacama Desert, showing its visibility from space. Atacama is one of the driest places on Earth, receiving less than 1mm of rain each year. These conditions have made it a popular dumping ground for unwanted clothing.  

The majority of these clothes are manufactured in China or Bangladesh and are then later shipped across the USA, Europe, and Asia. However, the unsold items ultimately find their way back to Atacama, where approximately 59,000 tons of clothing are dumped every year.

‍

"The size of the pile and the pollution it's causing are visible from space, making it clear that there is a need for change in the fashion industry” - SkyFi

‍

Mantaka Chasant, Western ‘Fast Fashion’ Pollutes African Beaches:

‍

In 2022, Chasant, a Ghanaian photojournalist with a long-standing interest in human and environmental sociology, gained significant attention for his documentation of thousands of discarded clothes on a beach near Accra. Many of these garments are believed to have come from the USA, the UK, and other wealthy nations.

Ghana is the third-largest importer of second-hand clothes globally. While sadly these garments were initially intended for resale and repurposing, they now struggle with the overwhelming quantity, leaving local traders unable to keep up with the pace. Also, the quality of the clothing they are receiving is becoming so poor, that repurposing or transforming them into other items seems no longer feasible or worthwhile.

As much as 40% of the clothing that arrives here ends up being dumped on the shores. The problem is only increasing due to novelty “one-off” outfits and low-quality fast fashion items becoming more popular. It not only has huge environmental effects, it also has a knock-on effect on Ghana’s own textile and design sectors with local traders unable to compete with the influx of unwanted cheap clothing coming in from overseas.

‍

“Documenting discarded unwanted clothes is part of my long-term focus on the geographies of waste -  to highlight the environmental cost and burden of fast fashion.” - Muntaka Chasant

‍

Labour Exploitation

‍

Fast fashion exploits labour by prioritising low production costs and rapid turnover rates, often at the expense of their worker’s rights and well-being. This exploitation can be seen in several ways, including low wages, unsafe working conditions, long working hours, lack of job security, and the use of manipulative practices such as forced overtime and verbal abuse.

The horrific consequences of this exploitation were made clear in the Rana Plaza disaster. The Rana Plaza was located in Savar on the outskirts of Dhaka, Bangladesh. It was an eight-story building that accommodated various shops, a bank, and garment factories. Tragically, it collapsed on the 24th of April, 2013 and the search for victims ended on the 13th of May 2013, with a death toll of 1,134, and around 2,500 injured individuals being rescued from the rubble. This event still remains the most profound tragedy to happen in the fast fashion industry. At first, it seems easiest to blame the garment factory owners’ carelessness, but the overpowering demand for cheap clothing is mostly to blame.

The building's fifth to eighth floors lacked essential support walls and couldn't handle the weight of heavy machinery from garment factories. Cracks were found in the building structure on the 23rd of April, 2013. While the shops and the bank on the lower floors immediately shut - the owners of the garment factories on the upper floors ignored the warning signs, forcing their workers to return to work the next day. On the morning of 24th of April 2013, at around 9:00 am local time, the building collapsed, trapping thousands.

Ten years on, the majority of the workers from the Rana Plaza haven’t been able to return to work or are struggling to make a living. Many have physical and emotional scars from the incident, facing the constant challenge of finding employment.

Once a Senior Operator at a garment factory in Rana Plaza, Shila Begum's life took a drastic turn. Now living just half a mile away in a makeshift room, she relies on sleeping pills for rest and spends her days watching TV and napping. With a crushed spinal cord, she can barely move and struggles with basic tasks like going to the bathroom. As a widow with a 15-year-old daughter, she can't afford her education, especially with severe damage to her kidneys and right hand, leaving her unable to work.

“They tried to pull the concrete plates that were on top of us. From both sides of the plates, people were pulling me and they managed to get me out. The weight of the concrete had pulled my uterus. At 11 pm they removed my uterus completely. I need medical treatment and I have dreams for my child, so I need to earn money. The tuition fees might be low, but all the materials you need to buy, like shoes, books, uniform and the exam money come on top of this.”

‍

The Rana Plaza collapsed on 24th April 2013 in the Savar Upazila of Dhaka District, Bangladesh.

‍

The Rise of Shein

‍

Founded in 2015 as "Sheinside," Shein started by specialising in wholesaling wedding dresses. However, it has now transitioned into a fast-fashion empire. Shein’s business model operates as 'test and repeat.' This involves creating small batches of clothing - typically only 50-100 pieces per item. If a design is popular, production increases; if not, it's completely discontinued.

Shein aggressively targets Gen Z consumers by using social media platforms as their main form of marketing. During the 2020 global pandemic, Shein gained popularity via TikTok and Instagram. Shein sends items to popular influencers and minor celebrities to connect with a younger demographic. These products are temptingly accessible to this audience as items can range from £1 up to £20 per piece. They also make sure to capture the latest fashion trends, so buyers can stay ‘relevant’ at a fraction of the price.

By 2023, Shein had achieved an alarming valuation of $64 billion. However, Shein has faced significant criticism for its labour practices and the damage they cause to the environment because of their fast fashion methods. Compared to other leading competitors such as H&M, ASOS and Boohoo, Shein is by far the biggest.

In October of 2022, Channel 4 aired a documentary called, “Inside the Shein Machine: UNTOLD”. This documentary is the first and only instance of hidden cameras gaining access to Shein factories. If you haven't already, I strongly suggest watching it.

The fast fashion industry has long been criticised for its constant exploitation of labour and environmental concerns. As Maxine Bédat, Executive Director at New Standard Institute once said, “There is no such thing as sustainable fashion”. However, Shein represents a whole new level of unsustainability, merging all the worst aspects of the fast fashion industry. Furthermore, upcoming competitors such as Cider and Temu, signal a significant shift in consumer behaviour towards a culture of disposal and greed, moving even further away from sustainable and ethical choices.

‍

How can you help?

‍

Buy less: Research suggests that we only wear 20% of our clothes regularly, therefore the demand for new clothes should not be as high as it is. The fast fashion industry heavily influences the idea that we need to stay on trend. Because of this, we need to change our mindset and buying behaviours. Brands should release fewer collections, but as consumers, buying less can help reduce the demand.

‍

Buy secondhand: As apps like Vinted and Depop have started to become more user-friendly, the trend of shopping second-hand is gaining popularity. These platforms offer the opportunity to earn money by selling items you no longer need or want. Additionally, charity shops also provide another opportunity for purchasing second-hand items while supporting an important cause.

Through the resale of clothes, the lifecycle of these items is extended. Studies have shown that extending the lifespan of clothing by just nine months can significantly reduce its carbon footprint.

‍

Choose natural materials: Start shopping for natural materials: While organic cotton, linen, and hemp do come with a higher price tag and their own environmental impacts, they do offer durability and are a lot easier to repair, unlike cheaper alternatives. Investing in slightly pricier, higher-quality materials can help to drastically extend the lifespan of your wardrobe.

‍

Look after clothes properly: Take better care of your clothes. It's that simple - washing clothes at the appropriate temperature and taking good care of them can significantly extend their lifespan. Washing at a 30-degree heat not only reduces your carbon footprint but also minimises wear and tear, allowing us to enjoy them for longer.

‍

Do your research: Before you buy, take a moment to do your research. Look into the brand's sustainability and social morals. If your findings are negative or don't align with your values, consider a more sustainable option or ask yourself: “Honestly, do I really need this?” Apps such as “Good on You” provide sustainable and ethical ratings of top fashion brands and they also offer alternative options.

‍

I've always supported the idea of adopting an educational culture rather than resorting to blame. Nevertheless, there comes a point where we must draw a line. Most of us now have access to the resources and tools to take on the responsibility of self-education. While I acknowledge that fast fashion offers affordability and quality remains a luxury for many, the accessibility of second-hand options has never been greater. We need to reflect on our consumption habits and ask ourselves if our purchases are truly necessary. Let’s embrace finding our own unique style, avoid overbuying, and start taking care of our belongings, it’s a lot easier than you think!

‍

Links:

https://www.independent.co.uk/climate-change/news/fast-fashion-ghana-clothes-waste-b2132399.html

https://www.muntaka.com/

https://www.independent.co.uk/climate-change/news/fast-fashion-chile-desert-space-b2361069.html

https://www.space.com/mountain-discarded-clothes-chile-satellite-photo

https://cleanclothes.org/campaigns/past/rana-plaza

https://www.nytimes.com/2018/04/24/style/survivors-of-rana-plaza-disaster.html

https://www.wob.com/en-gb/books/lauren-bravo/how-to-break-up-with-fast-fashion/9781472267740?cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=19545754695&cq_con=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAxaCvBhBaEiwAvsLmWP1mUXclhGGXs5H7IJE04Vd_4_wFqWHQJfR_HD0eHWHvrm_m6vpyPRoCO7EQAvD_BwE#GOR011000935

‍